ARTICLES ON HAWAIIAN
BIRDS AND BIRDWATCHING AND OTHER
PACIFIC WILDLIFE
Hawai'i Birding Hotspots No.3 - The Alaka'i Swamp & Koke'e Forest, Kaua'i
The Alaka'i Swamp and Koke'e Forest are two of the best locations in Hawai'i, firstly for the birdwatching and secondly for the amazing views of this fascinating place. Eight species of endemic forest bird can still be encountered here and the hiking trails and overlooks provide some of the most beautiful scenery anywhere in the World.
Like all the Hawaiian Islands, Kaua'i was formed from volcanic eruptions millions of years ago and the resulting landscape is due entirely to the erosion of lava by rain, wind and river valley erosion.
Koke'e State Park roughly starts just beyond the Pu'u Hinahina Lookout as the highway leaves the Canyon rim. To the south and east the park abuts the valleys that lead into Waimea Canyon and to the north and west it drops to the sheer Na Pali cliffs.The main highway, Waimea Canyon Drive, follows the Kaunuohua Ridge as it climbs through the forest to the end at the Pu'u O Kila overlook.
Much of Koke'e is Alpine Forest and is home to unique plants and animals. The amazing Alaka'i Swamp, is actually not a true swamp, rather a high elevation bog. The natural volcanic bowl captures the rainfall and creates an unearthly wet spongy forest habitat. The internal sections of the forest and the swamp are seldom visited due to their remoteness and difficulty in accessing the site. No overnight camping is allowed and so hikers would need to hike in and out on the same day - a trip that would be beyond all. It is also nice to think that perhaps in some small area some of the most endangered birds are just managing to survive, out of the gaze of humans. Thorough bird surveys in the1990's failed to locate any of the now extinct species, and so it is best not to attempt to enter the swamp, except on recognised footpaths.
There are hundreds of trails leading off from Koke'e into the
forest. Some are short half mile paths whilst others are 5 miles or more and it is important to take into account
the weather conditions before and during your trip. Tracks and trails which seem dry and solid on the way in may
become wet and boggy or become streams after even small amounts of rain. This is particular important if you reach
a trail head by car. Every year tourists get stuck in mud patches along the tracks in the forest because they have
driven in with normal saloon cars and the rain has left the track unusable on the return trip; even 4 wheel drive
trucks often get stuck.
The mists that often shroud the higher areas of the Island can appear and disappear in an instant and on any hike into the forest one should be prepared for rain and cold temperatures, even if the weather appears to be clear skies and sunshine. Thick mist can make following trails hard, off-trail it can become impossible and dangerous as there are many drop-offs and cliff edges.
Stopping to bird on the way up is a good start and any of the small pullouts and parking lots beside the road will reveal some of the forest endemics. Parking at the Koke'e Museum and Lodge is a good idea if you are considering hiking some of the trails for a short distance, but for those planning on a days birding, the Pihea Ridge and Alaka'i Swamp Trails are probably the easiest and most accessible to get to and hike and will reveal at least 6 of the 8 endemic species. For 8 out of 8 a hike down Mohihi or Kawaikoi Stream Trail is a must. The services of a good guide would be advantageous for a better chance of seeing all eight endemics, as they can be elusive and change their distribution from month to month and year to year.
The Koke'e Museum has information on all of the trails and tracks in the Park and is a must for up to date information. The museum also sells maps, books, postcards and other Hawaiiana as well as having interpretive displays and a video show on the effects of Hurricane Iniki. Next to the museum is Koke'e Lodge which sells hot snacks and drinks, as well as other products and souvenirs (open c.9am - 3.30pm). It also has a restroom.
Left: The Alaka'i Plateau, Kaua'i, with Mount Waialeale in the background.
The last stronghold of many of Hawai'i's endemic forest species. The impenetrable valley walls enable species to
survive without too much disturbance, although exotic vegetation tends to outgrow the endemic plant species, depriving
native birds of vital food sources.
Right: View across Koke'e forest. Lookouts such as this one enable sightings
of feeding birds such as 'Apapane, I'iwi and 'Amakihi. Flowers of the 'O'hia are a particular favourite and flowers
in bloom will be repeatedly visited for nectar gathering, and so a while spent at suitable flowers will usually
result in rich rewards.
Left: Peak of Pu'u La'au, Kaua'i. Clearings such as this one will often
provide sightings of species such as 'Elepaio and 'Anianiau, which seem to enjoy feeding in small clearings, especially
near the base of plants. These clearings are often present for a reason, with most containing slow running water
and boggy areas.
Above two photographs: Mount Waialeale, Kaua'i. These shots taken from a helicopter show the main drainage channel for the Island. Mount Waialeale
is reputedly the wettest spot on Earth, with over 45 feet of rain a year. Suitable habitat near the base of the
mountain peak were the last stronghold of the Kama'o or Large Kaua'i Thrush, but searches during the 1990's failed
to locate any individuals. The species apparently preferred the areas nearer the tops of the valleys and mountain
peaks, and so after the hurricanes Iwa and Iniki, in the 1980's and 1990's the habitat in these spots was badly
damaged, confounding the problems already faced by these birds.
Eight endemic forest bird species can be seen in the forest, as well as numerous introduced species.
The
Kaua'u 'Elepaio is a small flycatcher species endemic
to Kaua'i, although other species occur on O'ahu and Hawai'i. The species is usually very tame and can be coaxed
closer by "pishing" and call imitation, and will often follow hikers along the paths and trails. The
species is quite common in the area and can often be seen just off the main road or in many of the pullouts along
the highway. Good spots to see the bird include the Kalalau Lookout, near the toilet block, the Pihea Ridge Trail,
the Alaka'i Swamp Trail and
The Puaiohi is the last remaining thrush on Kaua'i, as the Kama'o is
almost certainly extinct, despite managing to survive into the late 1980's and early 1990's. The Puaiohi or Small
Kaua'i Thrush is a rare and elusive species which is confined to the central portion of the Alaka'i Swamp, although
recent translocation of birds means that they may be sighted now along the western section of the Alaka'i Swamp
Trail. The species is shy and elusive, but can be inquisitive and will fly to a nearby tree to investigate any
visitors, however unlike the 'Elepaio, the Thrush will not usually stay very long, instead flying far away from
the location, often over the next valley. The best chance to see this species is along the Alaka'i Swamp Trail,
especially the eastern section and along the Mohihi Trail and Trails near the Kawaikoi Trail, especially if the
trail runs near to or passes by stream beds, a favourite nesting area for this species.
The Kaua'i 'Amakihi is a very common bird in both the Alaka'i and in Koke'e
and can be seen with ease all along the approach road and along the trails of this area. The Kaua'i species has
a longer bill than those on other Islands and can be a trap for the unwary seeking rarer species such as Nukupu'u.
Good locations to observe this species are the Kalalau Overlook, the start of the Pihea Ridge Trail and trails
starting opposite the Koke'e Museum and Lodge.
The 'Anianiau is Kaua'i's smallest endemic species and is quite common
in the forest. It can easily be seen flitting along the paths and often feeds closer to the ground than 'Amakihi
or 'Akeke'e, which often results in very good views. The species is easily seen along the Pihea and Alaka'i Swamp
Trails as well as at the Kalalau Overlook, although usually they are easier to see on the opposite side of the
road or just south of the overlook parking lot.
The 'Akeke'e is quite common but can be very elusive in the forest, tending
to remain higher up in the canopy than other species, although sometimes the species can be observed at close range
in quite open spaces, such as at the Kalalau Overlook. Note the dark eye mask on this species distinguishing it
from the 'Amakihi. Birds can often be encountered along the Alaka'i Swamp Trail, the Pihea Trail and those trails
leading off eastwards from near the Museum.
The 'Akikiki or Kaua'i Creeper is probably the most secretive and difficult
to find of the Kaua'i forest birds along with the Puaiohi. Birds tend to be quite shy and quiet when feeding and
can remain hidden amongst the the branches and foliage of the trees. The numbers of individuals existing has dropped
dramatically in the last twenty years or so, and the species range seems to have shrunk, with very few reports
of birds being seen in Koke'e State Park, whereas once it was quite numerous there. To see this species hiking
along the Mohihi Trail and Kawaikoi Stream trail would provide the best chances of observing them, although the
secretive nature of the species means that a sighting is by no means guaranteed.
One of the
most attractive species of Hawaiian birds, the I'iwi
is still quite common in the area, although can be surprisingly elusive at times. Birds will often fly long distances
between feeding flowers and so it may take a while for birds to return to the same spot. Small overlooks along
the trails which look over open valleys provide great observation points for this species, and close views can
often be obtained of birds feeding on 'O'hia below.
The call is often the first indication that a bird is near and the calls can be heard for quite some distance.
Numbers of birds seem to fluctuate widely from year to year, perhaps more than other species, so on some trips
dozens will be seen and the next just a couple, or none at all! Best trails to see this species include the Alaka'i
Swamp Trail, Mohihi Trail and Kawaikoi stream trail.
The most abundant endemic forest
bird on Kaua'i is the 'Apapane. Birds can be seen almost anywhere in the Alaka'i Swamp or Koke'e area and
most visitors will see this bird - even if they do not realise what they have seen! The species can be seen flying
around over the lookouts, forest, trails, clearings, anywhere really and often announce their presence with whirring
wings and strange-sounding calls and songs. Any location in the park is likely to produce this species.
Other endemic forest birds that occurred in the Alaka'i Swamp area in the 20th Century but which are now extinct
include the Kaua'i O'o, the Kaua'i Nukupu'u, the Kama'o, O'U and the Kaua'i 'Akialoa. These species managed to
survive into the 1970's, 1980's and some the 1990's before finally succumbing to disease, loss of habitat and depletion
of food sources, as well as undoubtedly other factors. More details on these species can be found on the Annotated List of Hawai'i's Extinct Birds
page.
White-tailed Tropicbirds are frequently seen soaring over the forest, coming and going from their nesting
sites and the sea and occasional Great Frigatebirds will soar over as they move through the chain. Three
other seabirds breed in the valleys and canyons of Koke'e and Waimea: Band-rumped Storm Petrel, Hawaiian
Petrel and Newell's Shearwater. The latter two species tend to nest in the valleys which lead northwards
from the Alaka'i Swamp, although most sites are inaccessible and located on cliff edges. Individuals of both species
may be heard at night from the parking lot at the start of the Pihea Ridge Trail, although usually somewhat distant.
Remember no overnight camping is allowed on the trails. The Band-rumped Storm Petrels are presumed to nest
inside Waimea Canyon, although no nest has ever been found, despite searching. Birds can sometimes be heard during
the spring calling in the Canyon, but numbers are few and birds do not visit every night.
Nene have been released at the Museum and small groups of birds can sometimes be seen on the grassy lawn here or nearby in fields and pastures, although the population appears to be stable with little increase in numbers. Koloa or Hawaiian Duck are occasionally seen in some of the wet areas of the swamp, particularly on the northern side, but it is not a common sight here. Hawaiian Moorhen have also been recorded in the swamp too, but this is an even more unusual species up at this elevation.
Red Junglefowl are plentiful by the Museum and Lodge and many are in natural plumage, although each year more and more seem to show traits of domestic varieties. Occasionally "wild plumaged" birds can be encountered in the forest itself and these are often more wary of humans and may be a better bet for "wild" candidacy. Those by the Lodge and Museum readily come to food offerings.
Introduced species are common throughout the forest and surrounding area and include the usual species: House Finch, Common Myna, Japanese Whiteeye, Northern Cardinal, Red-crested Cardinal, White-rumped Shama, Hwamei, Japanese Bush-Warbler, Spotted and Zebra Doves and Chestnut and Nutmeg Mannikins. House Sparrows and Northern Mockingbirds may be seen by the Museum and Lodge, as well as further down the main highway.
In the open areas and meadows Western Meadowlarks are commonly seen.
Gamebirds are found in the canyons of Waimea and occasionally a few will be seen in Koke'e, although most are very elusive apart from the Ring-necked Pheasants. Species include Black and Erckel's Francolins, Chukar, California Quail (very uncommon) and possibly Gray Francolin.
Pueo or Short-eared Owls are commonly seen soaring over the forest looking for prey, and occasionally Barn Owls will be seen too.
Vagrant species are few and far between to the area, as would be expected of a high elevation forest, but Golden Eagle and Peregrine Falcon have been recorded, the former only once - a long staying bird which patrolled the Island during the 1980's and finally succumbed to the rotor of a helicopter. Peregrines have been recorded on several occasions. Ospreys have been recorded on a few occasions, although they are usually just passing between reservoirs/ponds.
There are hundreds of trails leading off from Koke'e into the forest. Some are short half mile paths whilst others are 5 miles or more and it is important to take into account the weather conditions before and during your trip. Tracks and trails which seem dry and solid on the way in may become wet and boggy or become streams after even small amounts of rain. This is particular important if you reach a trail head by car. Every year tourists get stuck in mud patches along the tracks in the forest because they have driven in with normal saloon cars and the rain has left the track unusable on the return trip; even 4 wheel drive trucks often get stuck.
Many of the Parks trails were devastated by Hurricane Iniki in the early 1990's but most have been restored and many upgraded, so that in many places wooden boardwalks take the place of the impenetrable mud. Some trails however have disappeared all together. It would be impossible to mention all the trails here but a few of the better ones (bird-wise) are shown here. For up to date information on maps, trail status and weather conditions call in at the Koke'e Museum for advice.
Pihea Ridge Trail
Probably the most-walked trail in the Park. the trail head is located at the very end of the main highway at the Pu'u O kila Lookout. The trail starts of easily enough on lava and worn tarmac (the remnants of an abandoned project to circle the Island with a road) but soon becomes a little more muddy, though quite solid still. The trail is 3.75 miles long before it transects the Alaka'i Swamp Trail. After the first 2.75 - 3 miles the track drops down the valley side and becomes a boardwalk, first of all however there is a large number of wooden steps to climb down - not too bad on the way down but remember the climb back afterwards! All along the first part of the trail (along the ridge) you should observe 'Apapane, 'Elepaio, 'Amakihi and 'Anianiau. The Pihea Lookout is after about a mile from the Trail head and is at 4284 feet, giving commanding views into Kalalau valley and across to the island of Ni'ihau. It should be noted that sometimes the road becomes extremely potholed and may even be closed by the State (as happened in late 2002) and so walking from the Kalalau Overlook parking lot to the Pihea Ridge Trailhead may be required.
Once you have dropped onto the stairs and continued inland a little I'iwi and possibly 'Akeke'e will start to appear, so keep your eyes open along this section.
Left:
Koke'e Forest from the Pihea Ridge Trail. Home
to many endemic species of flora and fauna. A good plant book is recommended when visiting the area, as hundreds
of species can be observed. Endemic Dragonflies can often be seen flying rapidly over the trails here. Other species
which might be encountered include Wild Pigs and Rats.
Off either side of the trail there are numerous overlooks where birds can be seen feeding on flowers and displaying
to each other and there is always the remote possibility of a Puaiohi or 'Akikiki sighting along here,
especially where the trail overlooks a stream or wet gully. Eventually the trail intersects with the Alaka'i Swamp
Trail at c. 3.75 miles. The last few hundred yards of boardwalk before the "crossroads" is an especially
good spot and 'Akikiki have been sighted here fairly regularly in the past, although are certainly not common or
of daily occurrence. 'Akeke'e is regular along
this stretch - check the tree canopy for this species. Turning left or right at the intersection will take you
along the Alka'i Swamp Trail, continue straight on and eventually the trail leads to the Kawaikoi Stream Trail
(c.2 miles) and ultimately the main track from Koke'e Museum (c.4 miles), the track back to the Museum is about
8 or 9 miles long.
Alaka'i Swamp Trail
This trail starts from the Camp 10 road in the western portion of the Park (reachable
from near the Museum) and continues right the way to the Kilohana Overlook which sits 4030 feet above sea level
on the northern edge of the Alaka'i Swamp, and overlooks Wainiha and Hanalei Bays of the North Shore. The start
of the trail for about two 
miles
is not remarkable although endemic species will be seen easily and only becomes really interesting from the intersection
with the Alaka'i Swamp Trail to its end at the Kilohana Overlook. Along this stretch there are stream valleys which
hold the odd Puaiohi and boggy areas which hold
endemic sundew plants and are occasionally visited
by Koloa. Following the trail North from the intersection
the trail leads down a steep series of steps to the Kauaikanana Stream bed and then rises again on the other side.
This area can be good for the secretive 'Akikiki,
as well as 'Anianiau, 'Akeke'e and 'Amakihi. The trail is about
3.5 miles from the intersection to its end at the overlook, and although most is on boardwalk there are a few areas
where the going gets a little muddy and so boots or walking shoes are highly recommended.
Kawaikoi Stream Trail
Continuing along the Pihea Trail at the intersection (ie. travelling southeast - south) the boardwalk ends and the trail narrows, but is passable in dry weather, in wet weather the trail can become slippery and muddy. The trail zig zags down the vegetated pali (cliff) and ends up at Kawaikoi Stream, then heads right and follows the bank through forest and over several small streams. Shortly after a basic picnic shelter at the 3 mile marker you cross the main stream via rocks in the river bed and then join the Kawaikoi Stream Trail on the other side. Endemic forest birds are visible all along this section and there is a good possibility of 'Akikiki and Puaiohi.
Along to the left the trail continues as a loop trail (c.1 mile
long) and this is worth a check for Puaiohi, as well as lovely green vistas. Turn right instead and the trail continues
for about fifteen minutes until you reach a plank footbridge, two miles from the Alaka'i junction and this is the
end of the trail. Here there is a picnic area (Kawaikoi Picnic area) and a large meadow with two shelters and a
rest room. Turning right on the dirt road at the far end will, after a fifteen minute climb, bring you to the Alaka'i
Picnic area and the trail head of the Alaka'i Swamp Trail. If you have parked at the Pu'u O Kila overlook you can
walk to the Pihea/ Alaka'i Trail intersection, then back up the Pihea Trail. This would takes about five hours.
By following the dirt road to the park headquarters and then climbing Waimea Canyon Drive will take longer and
is much further.
If it is possible to arrange, a vehicle left at the Kawaikoi end and another at the Pu'u O Kila overlook will mean that the hike need only be one way and will allow for more time birding in the forest.
The Awa'awapuhi Trail
The trail starts on the left of Waimea Canyon Drive, midway between the Park Headquarters and the Kalalau Overlook and drops steeply through three miles of forest to the Awa'awapuhi Valley. To walk to the end takes just over an hour, but obviously takes longer climbing back up. The only real views come right at the end, but are definitely worth it, and there can be quite good birding on the way too, with 6 of the 8 endemics possible (no Puaiohi or 'Akikiki here). There is a numbered plant trail along here and a guide can be picked up at the Museum to help you identify the species present (Awa'awapuhi Botanical Guide).
The trail begins its descent from the left side of the parking
lot. Its quite an easy-going trail, with clear paths. The forest is mostly 'O'hia to start with, but once it drops
into hotter and drier areas Koa largely takes over. After about 1.5 miles the tree cover thins a little and some
great views start to appear and just after the 2.75 mile marker the trail start for the Nu'alolo Cliff Trail starts.
The end of the trail is at about the 3 mile mark and stops suddenly at 2400 feet above sea level and runs along
the ridge there. There is a railing here which marks the overlook at the head of the Awa'awapuhi Valley. Below
it is possible to see the Awa'awapuhi River twisting down the valley and out to the ocean, ancient Hawaiians said
that the valley was shaped by a slithering eel going into the sea and its final thrashings meant that you cannot
see where the river enters the ocean. Several visitors have fallen to their death here when they stray off the
paths to get the perfect photo just beyond the railing - be careful! The endangered endemic Green
Sphinx Moth has been sighted near here, although it is unlikely to be observed
in the day, and the caterpillar of the species has never been seen.
The Nu'alolo Cliff and Nu'alolo Trails
From the intersection with the Awa'awapuhi trail described above, the trail dips down into a small patch of rainforest, where it crosses a small stream, and eventually plummets ahead. Make sure to remain on the main trail here. The trail continues across several meadows, one of which has a picnic shelter. At about the 1.75 mile mark the path goes round a sharp corner and a colossal drop. The ground here is loose gravel and the trail is a narrow and slanting groove scuffed against the hillside. The dislodged pebbles from your boots tumble thousands of feet to the valley floor and the ground clutched to for safety will likely crumble in your fingers! Just after that you join the Nu'alolo Trail, here 3.25 miles from the starting point with the Lolo Vista Point, another three-quarters of a mile to your right.
The Nu'alolo Trail is similar to the Awa'awapuhi Trail and follows along the ridge and then provides sweeping vistas over the Na Pali. the trail starts just below Koke'e Museum and Lodge and starts with a switchback path over the Kaunuohua Ridge. After that it drops progressively downhill, at times winding gently through meadows. After two miles the trail descends steeply through a channel in the mud, and for half a mile the trail is muddy and slippery down the crest of the ridge. The fifteen minute walk along past the junction with the Nu'alolo Cliff Trail is along the exposed ridge towards Lolo Vista Point is regarded as a separate trail and is for experienced hikers and climbers only. Birds are not as easily seen along this trail but 'Amakihi, 'Anianiau, 'Apapane and occasional I'iwi can be seen. Western Meadowlarks are seen in the grassy meadows.
The Alaka'i Swamp, Koke'e Forest and Wiamea Canyon are three sites that no visitor to Hawai'i should leave without
seeing, the area is one of only two places in the State where one is able to view eight species of endemic forest
birds (the other is Hakalau, Hawai'i).
Useful information about The Alakai Swamp and Koke'e Forest State Park.
| LOCATION | Central portion of Kaua'i. Reached via Highway 550 from either Kekaha or Waimea Town at the Southwest side of Kaua'i. | Many trails and paths lead off from the main highway. Note that many tracks which are wide enough for vehicles and appear driveable may not be, especially after heavy rain. No tracks like this should be attempted without 4W Drive. Get up to date information & maps from the Museum. | ||
| OPENING TIMES | Open all year. No overnight camping except at designated locations. | |||
| ENTRANCE FEE | None payable. | |||
| VOLUNTARY or ASSOCIATED GROUPS | Koke'e Natural History Museum. | P.O. Box 100, Kekaha, Kaua'i, HI 96752 Tel: 1 808 335 9975 Fax: 1 808 335 6131 Koke'e Natural History Museum Website |
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| BIRD SPECIES OBSERVED | 50 species (approximate), including eight extant (surviving) endemic species. Excludes endemic forest birds before historic times and extinct species. Four species extinct in late 20th Century. | c.38 species recorded annually, c.35 breeding annually. | ||
| FOREST & LAND OWNERS/ GUARDIANS | State and Federally owned lands. Usual restrictions of these groups applies. Hunting allowed in designated areas with relevant permits. | Kaua'i Division of State Parks: Telephone 1 808 335 8405 |
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| ACCOMMODATION | Camping by permit only. Cabin rental available. |
Camping Permits available from State Department of Land and Natural Resources, State Parks Division, 3060 Eiwa
Street, Lihue, Hawai'i 96766. Telephone 1 808 274 3444. Cabin information from Koke'e Museum. Essential to book in advance and staying time limited. |
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| USEFUL READING | The Birds of Kaua'i by Jim Denny. Birds of the Rainforest video by Jim Denny. Birds of Hawaii and the Tropical Pacific by H.D. Pratt et al. Hawaii's Birds by The Hawai'i Audubon Society. Hawai'i - Lonely Planet Guidebook by G. Bendure and N. Friary The National Geographic Traveler - Hawaii by R. Ariyoshi Hawaii - The Rough Guide by Greg Ward |
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| LINKS | Kauai's Birds Koke'e Natural History Museum Website |
The Alaka'i Swamp and Koke'e Forest State Park, Kaua'i. Spring 2000.
Christian Melgar. Worthing, West Sussex, UK. 2002.
