ARTICLES ON HAWAIIAN
BIRDS AND BIRDWATCHING
Hawai'i Birding Hotspots No.2 - Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge, Kaua'i.
The Hanalei area is one of the most beautiful and picturesque areas in the whole of Hawai'i, despite being a popular and much-visited location. The refuge can be reached by car along Highway 56 along the North Shore of Kaua'i. At Princeville there is a scenic overlook where there is limited parking and a viewing area which overlooks the Nothern, Eastern and Western portions of the Wildlife Refuge.
Hanalei NWR was established in 1973 for the conservation and promotion of waterbirds and was chosen because of the high numbers of endemic wetland birds which used the already existing ponds, ditches and taro lo'i (or fields). The refuge now consists of over 900 acres of which the majority is under the cultivation of Taro, an important Hawaiian food crop and undoubtedly one of the best crop-types for the promotion of waterbirds due to the way in which the crop is produced.
All four species of endemic Waterbird nest and feed at Hanalei NWR - the Hawaiian Coot (Fulica
alai), Hawaiian Duck or Koloa Maoli (Anas wyvilliana), Hawaiian Stilt (Himantopus
mexicanus knudseni) and Hawaiian Common Gallinule or Moorhen (Gallinula chloropus sandvicensis),
the last two species are currently (2002) only considered as sub-species of mainland forms, but the Stilt at least
has good credentials for specific-species status.
In 2000 a small flock of Nene or Hawaiian Geese (Branta sandvicensis) were released on the refuge, as paleontology records show that the species was a widespread resident in Hawai'i's marshes and wetlands before the arrival of man, where they fed on native grasses and sedges.
Hawaiian Duck or Koloa probably occur here in larger numbers than at any other site
in Hawai'i. Birds are present all year round and can number several hundred. The species is more active at dusk,
dawn and in the mornings and can easily be observed. During the heat of the day the species is usually more elusive
amongst the taro, pond vegetation and grassy islands. Although most birds are considered pure here, a few do show
a few out of character plumage details, but these (such as greenish head sheens) may just be a natural variant
amongst the population. Occasionally leucistic birds are present and these creamy white individuals are often harder
to spot than one might expect. Two leucistic birds were present in 1998 with one remaining into 1999.
Hawaiian Coot is a common resident at Hanalei, although numbers fluctuate widely with the
seasons, the weather and with the state of the ponds and amount of water available to them. In some years numbers
hover around 100 (or less) to 200 birds, whereas in some years the population may rise to 300 or 400 birds. Exceptionally
in 1997-1998 over 700 were present at Hanalei, part of an increase noted island-wide that year. Birds nest at Hanalei
in all months, although the March to July period is the peak. Most nests are located in the safety of the taro
lo'i, and as such, unfortunately many nests get unnoticed and go unrecorded. Coots tend to like the more open water
areas on the refuge such as newly planted/harvested lo'i and the large refuge ponds, although close study has revealed
that the food source is more important than the size of the water area. The species is usually visible all day.
Hawaiian Stilts are resident all year at Hanalei, although numbers are highest during the
winter and fall, when birds have returned from Ni'ihau where many of Kaua'i's birds go to nest. Up to 20 nests
have been found at Hanalei in a year (recently), although more nests have been recorded in the past, unfortunately
population recruitment at the site seems to be very low. Nests have been recorded between February and November,
with a peak in the April to July period. Gatherings outside the nesting season can number up to 200 individuals,
although smaller groups are usually the norm. The species is usually visible all day, although during the hottest
times the species may take cover under mature taro plants and be hard to spot from the overlooks.
The Hawaiian Gallinule or Moorhen is a shy resident of the ponds, ditches and lo'i
on the refuge and can usually be seen walking along the dykes at any time of the day, although mornings and evenings
are usually better, when this often shy species become a little less wary. Numbers nesting at Hanalei usually numbers
about 20 or so nests each year, although again the secretive nature of the species means that many nest doubtless
go unrecorded. Nesting has been observed in all months, but like the other endemic waterbirds the peak is between
April and July. Birds particularly like newly harvested taro lo'i, where they can be observed feeding on floating
vegetable matter and small invertebrates. This species seems to be more dominant and aggressive than the Coot when
there is just one Coot, but if there is a small group of Coots the Moorhens will often be the more submissive species.
The Nene or Hawaiian Goose was a common resident of Kaua'i's wetlands, including Hanalei
until the arrival of the Polynesians but has only been a casual flyover visitor in recent historic times until
1999 when a small flock was released at Hanalei. The flock appears to be thriving (as at December 2001), with only
a couple of losses. The first chick (a single) was recorded in early 2001, and it is hoped that this will be the
first of many reared on the refuge. The species wander quite widely on the refuge, where they feed on native and
introduced grasses, sedges and other vegetation, as well as floating vegetation in taro lo'i. Although an unusual
sight elsewhere in Hawai'i, birds are frequently seen swimming, feeding and bathing in the ponds around the refuge.
The birds can be observed at any time of the day, but early mornings are perhaps best, when birds may be more active
and flying around calling more. During the nesting season the birds are usually found in pairs or groups of three
or four, whereas in the winter season birds often form one group.
Black-crowned Night Herons are a very common indigenous species which is easily
seen all over the refuge in all types of habitats. There is usually a good mix of ages with full summer-plumaged
adults standing and feeding next to first-year birds. The birds feed mainly on frogs and small fish and occasionally
nestlings. The species can sometimes be present in very large numbers, sometimes totalling almost 100 birds, with
up to 50 in a single newly harvested taro lo'i. The species breeds on the hillsides overlooking the refuge and
although it is often possible to hear the raucous croaks of the young, it is usually impossible to locate the nest.
The introduced Cattle Egret is an abundant species at Hanalei and the roost at the Eastern
side of the refuge often holds a couple of hundred birds. Most of these individuals fly off to feed outside of
the refuge boundaries, with a couple of dozen remaining in the ponds during the day. In the evening, returning
birds will stop at the refuge to drink, bath and have a quick "snack" before continuing to the roost
site. Birds can be observed at any time of the day. The roost is periodically partly culled by Wildlife Services
(a Government body) to control the numbers as the species is said to have an impact on numbers of wetland birds
fledging. However, there has been no study to prove this at Hanalei, where most of the food eaten by the Egrets
is small frogs, fish, tadpoles and insects.
Of course Hanalei is one of the prime Hawai'i birding spots, its North shore location with a wide array of ponds and wetland habitat makes it the ideal wintering place for a variety of migrants, as well as providing a site for those species just passing through. A long list of Wildfowl and Shorebirds has been built up at Hanalei over the years and it boasts one of the best in the State, rivalled only by James Campbell NWR (O'ahu) and Kealia Pond NWR (Maui).
Pied-billed Grebes have been recorded at the refuge on several occasions, with
some birds defending territory and remaining for several months. The species seems to be less common now though,
with the demise of the Hawai'i breeding population and individuals seen from 1999 onwards are as likely to be mainland
vagrants than wanderers from other islands.
Migrant Great Blue Herons occasionally occur at Hanalei, with some individuals staying for several months at a time. White-faced Ibis has also been recorded a couple of times but this species is rare anywhere in Hawai'i, but an exceptional flock of five occurred in 2003 at Hanalei. Other species such as Snowy Egret and Green Heron are likely future additions to the site list.
Regular wintering species include Northen Pintail and Northern Shoveler,
the two most frequently recorded migrant duck species in the State. Numbers of Pintail are usually higher at the
refuge than Shoveler, although in some years the trend is reversed. Numbers tend not to be as high as at other
sites in Hawai'i, with Pintail usually only reaching about 30 birds or so and Shoveler numbering about 15 or so
in recent years. Numbers of these two species seems to have been higher in the past, and hopefully will increase
once again in future years. Birds can be seen on any part of the refuge, although the Western side taro lo'i and
the refuge ponds at the far west end of the refuge usually hold most of the birds. The best time to see the birds
is early morning and evening when the birds are feeding and more active and have been less disturbed. Numbers of
both species rise slightly in Spring, when birds from Kaua'i and no doubt Ni'ihau gather together to make their
migration back to the mainland. Occasionally a single bird or pair will remain for the summer, but these are usually
sick or injured birds and do not breed in Hawai'i.
Other wildfowl species recorded at the site annually include Ring-necked Duck, Lesser Scaup and Green-winged Teal, although only a few are usually present of each species. Less than annual species recorded include Greater Scaup, Blue-winged Teal, Cinnamon Teal, Eurasian Wigeon, Bufflehead and Garganey. Rarities have included Canvasback, Tufted Duck, Gadwall, Red-breasted Merganser, Ruddy Duck and Hawai'i's only record of Baikal Teal. Mallards have been recorded at Hanalei every so often and some may be genuine vagrants from the Mainland, such as up to six birds seen in 1998.
Fulvous Whistling Duck has been recorded on several occasions, but during the
years when the population was increasing on O'ahu. Now with the demise of that population further records in the
near future at Hanalei (or elsewhere on Kaua'i) seem remote.
Geese at the site have included Canada Goose (almost annual), White-fronted Goose (shown in photo, right), Snow Goose and Brant.
Mute Swan and Muscovey have been recorded as escapes.
Raptors are rare at Hanalei, Osprey being the most regularly recorded species, although it is far from annual. Peregrine has turned up on several occasions, including three different birds during the winter of 2000/2001. Northern Harrier has been recorded on a couple of occasions, and it is likely that the infamous Golden Eagle of Kaua'i occasionally passed overhead !
Hanalei is an excellent location for Shorebirds, although the fact that the
refuge is closed to most people means that many species go by unrecorded, especially the smaller species which
are hard to see, let alone identify from the overlooks. Annual migrants include Pectoral Sandpiper, Lesser Yellowlegs
and Long-billed Dowitcher as well the common and numerous Pacific Golden Plovers, Wandering Tattlers and less common
Turnstone. Most years other species are recorded, although this is almost always dependent on weather systems to
blow them off course.
The following species have been recorded, although those marked with (V) have been
recorded less than three times: Common Snipe, Wilson's Snipe, Whimbrel (V), Bristle-thighed Curlew, Greater Yellowlegs (V), Spotted Sandpiper (V) (Photo
above right), Siberian Tattler (V), Short-billed Dowitcher (V) (photo right),
Semipalmated Sandpiper (V), Western Sandpiper,
Little Stint (V), Rufous-necked Stint (V), Least Sandpiper, Sharp-tailed Sandpiper, Dunlin, Buff-breasted
Sandpiper (V on nearby Princeville Golf Course),
Ruff, Wilson's Phalarope, Red-necked Phalarope (V),Red
Phalarope, Black-bellied Plover, Semipalmated Plover and Killdeer (V).
Sanderlings are surprisingly scarce at Hanalei, with only a few recorded each year.
Anything could turn up here Shorebird-wise and so all birds are worth checking out.
As would be expected Hanalei is not a great site for Seabirds or Gulls. Gulls tend to not like the freshwater ponds and lack of foraging areas and seabirds cannot find suitable habitat here either, however a number of species have been recorded on, over and from the refuge. Laysan Albatrosses pass over every year on their way between sites and occasionally one will fly low over the ponds or even land amongst the taro lo'i ! Great Frigatebirds frequently use the larger ponds to dip down and take a drink, as well as just being observed flying over. White-tailed Tropicbirds, Hawaiian Petrels and Newell's Shearwaters nest further down the Hanalei Valley and in the Alakai Swamp and can be seen flying over to their nesting sites. the Tropicbirds are usually seen during the day between March and August, but usually fly over very high up and can easily go unnoticed. The Petrels and Shearwaters fly over between late April and November and are seen at dusk, and therefore can also be hard to observe, although on a clear night the unusual calls of the Newell's Shearwater can be heard down the valley. Other species seen over or from the refuge include Black-footed Albatross, Red-footed, Brown and Masked Booby, Red-tailed Tropicbird and Wedge-tailed Shearwater.
Although Gulls do not linger long at Hanalei, a good selection of species have been recorded: Laughing, Franklin's and Ring-billed Gulls are the commonest to be recorded, but Glaucous, Glaucous-winged and Bonaparte's Gulls have all been recorded. Tern species recorded have been few but include Common, Arctic and Little/Least Terns, as well the occasional flyover Sooty Tern. Black Noddy has been recorded also, but is extremely unusual at this site
Introduced Barn Owls and indigenous Pueo (Short-eared owl) are
seen on a daily basis, although are often hard to observe and more often heard calling at dusk or dawn.
Introduced species are numerous and varied and the following species all nest and are commonly seen on the refuge: Ring-necked Pheasant, Western Meadowlark, Hwamei, White-rumped Shama, Japanese Bush Warbler (usually silent during December and January), Red Junglefowl, Japanese Whiteeye, Spotted and Zebra Doves (and very rarely Feral Rock Dove), Common Myna, Red-crested and Northern Cardinals, House and Java Sparrows, House Finch and Chestnut Munia and Nutmeg Mannikins. African Silverbill has been recorded rarely, although the area tends to be too wet for that species.
Northern Mockingbirds are annual but infrequent visitors to the refuge, mostly being seen on the hillside surrounding the refuge, rather than in the wetland area. greater-necklaced Laughing Thrushes are seen rarely on the refuge with most records from down the valley at the southern limit of the refuge, although they have also been seen on the hillsides on the Southwest side of the refuge.
Japanese Quail are an infrequent visitor to the refuge too, mostly being seen along the dykes between ponds when the weather is dry and the grass is at the required length (a few inches). They are extremely hard to spot at Hanalei due to the distance of observation and the secretiveness of the species - not really one to expect to see here.
There are two trails that lead from the refuge. The first is a short five minute walk up to a Heiau (Hawaiian
religious platform) and this gives views over a pond and a few taro lo'i, and is worth the short walk just to get
a different perspective. Park in the Parking lot on the Eastern side of Ohiki Road, about half a mile along, and
follow the path over the stream on the opposite side of the road. The second trail is from just North of the previous
one and climbs very steeply up along the ridge, through mainly introduced trees. From the top (and just before),
there are good views out across the refuge and Hanalei Bay. The view is quite commanding, especially of the refuge,
but the distance from the ponds and the strenuous (albeit quite short, c. 20 minutes) hike up to this viewpoint
makes it less use for birdwatching the ponds than might be thought.
Plans are currently being considered for a new and larger visitor overlook and information
center just east of the refuge on the ridge which overlooks the refuge and is reachable via the road just before
entering Princeville on Highway 56. The view from this side is shown to the right and although offers fine views
across to Hanalei Bay, it does mean that the most productive ponds are even further away for viewing .
Remember that the refuge ponds and taro lo'i are closed to the public and birdwatchers (or anyone else) should not trespass onto closed areas. Not only does this frighten the wetland species but it can upset foraging patterns and also put nesting in jeopardy, as well annoying taro farmers and FWS staff. It can also lead to the spread of unwanted diseases and pest species, such as alien weeds and eggs of Apple Snails, which feed on the taro.
Hanalei NWR is a site where anything could turn up, and is one of the States best birdwatching locations with a good variety of resident species and a great chance of seeing some far-flung vagrant too.
Useful information about Hanalei National Wildlife Refuge.
| LOCATION | North Shore of Kaua'i reached off Highway 56. Turn left at Hanalei Bridge (South of river) and drive down Ohiki Road through refuge to parking area or park at overlook just before Princeville. | |||
| OPENING TIMES | Refuge is closed to the public but can be viewed from public roads and overlooks. Do not trespass as this endangers bird nests and foraging patterns. | |||
| ENTRANCE FEE | None payable for observing from public rights of way. | |||
| GUIDED HIKES | None currently. | |||
| U.S. FISH & WILDLIFE OFFICE | P.O. Box 1128, Kilauea, Kaua'i, Hawai'i 96754 | Telephone: 1 808 828 1413 | ||
| VOLUNTARY or ASSOCIATED GROUPS | Hanalei Heritage River Program, Hanalei. | Tel: 1 808 826 1985 Link: Hanalei Heritage River |
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| BIRD SPECIES OBSERVED | At least 116 species (approximate), excluding Endemic forest birds before historic times and extinct species. | 44 species recorded annually, 25 breeding annually. | ||
| REFUGE MANAGER | Michael Hawkes | P.O. Box 1128, Kilauea, Kaua'i, Hawai'i 96754 Telephone: 1 808 828 1413 |
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| REFUGE BIOLOGIST | Brenda Zaun | Address as above. Telephone: 1 808 826 6641 |
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| USEFUL READING | Birds of Hawaii and the Tropical Pacific by H.D. Pratt et al. Hawaii's Birds by The Hawai'i Audubon Society. |
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| LINKS | Link: Hanalei National Wildlife
Refuge Link: Directions to Refuge Link: U.S. FWS Refuge checklists |
Hanalei Bay, NWR and Princeville taken by plane.
Christian Melgar, Worthing, West Sussex, England. February 2002.
